Posts Tagged With: book

About Beautiful Tufi

WTufi Papua New Guineaith this book I intend to show what life is like for the villagers of Tufi in Papua New Guinea.

Very little has been written about this area before, so having been impressed with both the people and the place I figured it was about time for a presentation. The people here are also quite representative for their country, living as they are in close contact with both the sea and the forests, and they are even ethnically a mix between the Melanesian and the Papuan groups. Traditional life is still dominating, but certainly not without influence and knowledge about the world around.

As with many other developing nations, much of the news that reaches the outside world about Papua New Guinea is of the negative kind, and the many misconceptions I have met with abroad has also triggered my inspiration to fill in some of the missing pieces.

During my first stays at Tufi I had learned that the area has a very dramatic and interesting history and a great wealth of natural treasures. Then there was the warmth and hospitality that I was met with, and all this made it natural to go back and experience more of what ‘beautiful Tufi’ has to offer.

The idea for the book developed slowly after my second visit to the area in 2006, and two years later I had started making serious preparations. In 2009 I again widened my range and made many important contacts – I learned that the villagers were positive to my coming back for a more substantial project.

Between August 2010 and March 2011 I spent more than six months around Tufi, and also ventured a bit further down the coast to Collingwood Bay for a few weeks. After many hours of story-telling in shelters all along this fascinating coastline; after long canoe rides and hikes through the forests; and after an endless number of wonderful experiences, I believe I have the material to give you an idea of what life at Tufi is like.

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Resort Relaxation or Independent Travelling?

Some experiences from travelling in Papua New Guinea

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PNG is a particularly fascinating and quite unexplored tourist destination, a place many have on their wish list but might be uncertain about: Is it difficult to get around; does it need to be expensive; do people understand English; should I leave to others to make all the practical arrangements?

Time

The decisive factor is time. If you have a week or ten days an organized stay at a resort, or with a touring or trekking company might be the best choice. There are several resorts both along the coasts, in the Highlands and along the big rivers, some specializing in diving, bird watching, fishing or cultural experiences, and some offering a bit of everything. There are price differences of course, which is also the case with the touring companies from abroad that have PNG on their schedule, so you want to
check out what suits your budget.

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Resort guest enjoying a beach picnic lunch at Tufi

If your plans are a bit more flexible, as mine have been, you can aim for a spot, book a few days at a hotel or resort, and then make arrangements with local people to visit special sights and places: villages, islands, waterfalls, bird watching sites, etc. Tufi is an ideal spot for this kind of travelling, and for me this has been a successful approach around Lae and Alotau as well: Kamiali and Salamaua south of Lae and the hot springs and villages on Fergusson Island are among the treasures in my travel scrap book.

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Boiling hot pools and geysers on Fergusson Island

The Moresby syndrome

A convenient feature for most of us is that English is spoken and understood pretty much everywhere. On the negative side are the fired-up hotel prices in Port Moresby. It’s not a bad idea to move on straight away on your arrival in the capital, but when returning you should book a night to be on the safe side – weather or other circumstances sometimes causes delays on domestic flights.

Rather than overspending in Moresby I prefer to spend an extra night at a pretty and relaxing resort or spend some extra in the villages. When in Port Moresby I usually stay at the reasonable and well-run Comfort Inn. Another good (but more expensive) alternative is to book at Loloata Island Resort just south of town.

Boroko market Port Moresby

Boroko market is a good spot for both locals and visitors in Port Moresby

Village stays

Try out the village guest houses! There are many all over the country, and I believe Tufi has the most. These are basic, bush material houses, but full catered and including transportation and guiding services; most of them need a day or two’s notice for preparations.  At Orotoaba (Tufi) I’ve had a morning Bird-of-Paradise walk followed by a lobster brunch; at Kamiali (Morobe) I’ve spent the sun rise hours paddling up a tranquil river; at Waluma (Fergusson Island) I’ve snorkeled by underwater volcanic vents; and at Angorogho (Tufi) I have climbed up to a hidden skull cave. My list is endless and spectacular.

Give it a try!!

Jebo guest house private white sand beach

At Jebo guest house you get your own private white sand beach

For village guest house information visit Village Huts

PS: Check blog posts below for stories about cultural festivals, waterfall walks, etc…

Categories: Book, Travel | Tags: , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

My First Visit to Tufi

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We are sitting on the porch of Benson’s auntie having a well-deserved rest. I turn my head – the view from up here is as promised: absolutely gorgeous. The green ridges that line the fjords are stretching out toward the Bismarck Sea, parts of them covered with kunai grass, and parts of them forested. The sea is shimmering along a wide horizon.

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This was back in 2005, and here from Kikita, high on the ridge behind the fjords, I had my first panoramic view of ‘Beautiful Tufi’. The walk up there, through the band of pretty, small hamlets, was the highlight of my first Tufi stay.

It was a short stay, only five-six days, but I had the feeling already before arriving there that this would just be a first glimpse; an entré that would be followed by longer and more adventurous visits.

I should thank my sisters and brothers-in-law down in Queensland for giving me the idea in the first place. Through them I knew that Papua New Guinea was not at all inaccessible, and since I was looking for a culturally exciting place to visit PNG was a natural pick. On the Internet I found my way to Tufi, with a small resort and possibilities for village stays. And so I took off.

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Paddling along coconut-lined beaches in traditional outriggers; stopping for a chat in villages and hamlets; getting to know people who were both interested in telling their own stories and listening to mine – this all made a deep and positive impression on me. I wanted to see more; I wanted to hear more.

Another of my memorable first-visit impressions was waking up to a beautiful sunrise on the beach just below the guesthouse at Kufure village. There I was also well taken care of by Davidson (in the photo below) and Erwatius, by Bona, Champion and Benson, and this is one of the reasons why I let my book both start and end at Kofure beach.

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The first paragraph here is from a little story that I wrote about my walk to Kikita for my old travel web page. If you’d like to see the whole story you click here.

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Coming soon !!

 

The ultimate presentation about Papua New Guinean life

 is just around the corner!

 

Tufi is both mountain and sea, both rainforest and beaches – it’s

PNG in a nutshell. I spent six months finding out about what life

is like around the wonderful Tufi shores and collecting stories of

both the past and the present.

Yes, the future too.

 

 

So her you can read about

The Fascinating People

The Beautiful Scenery

The Dramatic History

                                                                                  Photo by Frank Hurley, 1921, Australian Museum (v4589)

It’s a story about dealing with the past, while looking to the future; about being small in a big world, yet proud.

I’ll keep you updated about the publishing process…..

Mr. Jan

Categories: Travel, Tufi | Tags: , , , , , , | 1 Comment

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